This is about as far down the hipster road you can go. A bike shed in a car park is a generous description of Dirty Burger. These days though this is classed as an urban burger joint. Something the hipsters get off on. But in its paired back simplicity it manages to ticks all the boxes. Burger joints should all be simple. None of this choice of bun or cheese crap. It’s a burger, get what you’re given and keep your trap shut.
All they offer here is three burgers- they’ve begrudgingly had to add a veggie option to keep the herb munchers on board- and alongside it sit a Cheeseburger (£5.50) or the Dirty Bacon (£6.50). With a side of salty crinkled fries (£3.25) and a stubby of beer to wash things down, all while you sit on a communal table in what has the same decor as a bus stop, you will find yourself to be a happy punter. The burger and fries comes in at under a tenner as well, which is what they should cost. The more I think of the B&L £20 burger the more I see it as daylight robbery.
The burger itself is a thing of filthy beauty. The right side of messy. The right side of greasy. If you can imagine an upgrade on a Big Mac then this is what you have. And I mean that in the best way possible. With that same mystery yellow sauce and that same artificial sort of flavour of meat juice and gherkin, it’s everything you have ever wanted. Here you get the added bonus of being served by one of the hip Soho House staff, rather than some spotty goofball on the side of the motorway. So McDonald’s has finally met its match. The Big Mac has found its rival. If ever there was an accolade for a burger joint, or a reason to give it a try, then this surely is it.
Burger Rating: 9/10
79 Highgate Rd, London NW5 1TL